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Cherrapunjee was once the wettest place on earth. This little town in the rich, green Khasi Hills, offering a splendid view of Bangladesh, receives 450 inches of rain through the year. However, a few years ago that special title was pinched by neighbouring Mawnsyn, which one fateful year was deluged with 790 inches of rain. Nevertheless, humid, green, moist Cherrapunjee has not lost any of its charm. We inaugurated this series with an overview of Tranquebar, then offered the Orissa beach resort, Gopalpur-on-Sea, and the hill towns of Mirik and Kurseong, south of Darjeeling. We followed up with the historical Rajasthani town of Chittaurgarh, beautiful Sarahan in eastern Himachal, forgotten Orchha in Madhya Pradesh, lush green Chikhaldhara in eastern Maharashtra and holy Gaya. Cherrapunjee Many hundred miles east of Calcutta, in the the North East Hills of Meghalaya, perched on the Indo-Bangladesh border is Cherrapunjee. A little town that has put Meghalaya on the world map. The reason: One day in 1876 the frogs had reason for a gala party. Some 40 inches of rain fell on a single day. The town's very wet weather is not surprising, considering that geography dictates that the South Western monsoon winds -- pregnant with moisture and attracted to the low pressure centres of Meghalaya -- sweep across the length and breadth of India to unload rain by the bucketful on this town during the rainy season.
Cherrapunjee is a town of waterfalls, shiny green ravines, gorges and mysterious limestone caves that nature has decorated with a series of stalactites and stalagmites. The thundering Nohsngithiang falls are impressive. It is also a market centre for the unusual Khasi people. The main Cherra bazaar is famous for its colourful variety of goods including unusual tribal jewellery, orange-flavoured honey. Missionaries made Cherrapunjee their home as early as 1888. The Welsh Presbyterian Missionaries and the Ramakrishna Mission have a base here. Khasis, who are predominantly Christians, are members of the Mongolian race and perhaps related to the Munda adivasis of Bihar. It is believed they migrated to these parts from southern China. Even the Khasi dialect belongs to the Mon-Khmer language family. Another waterfall of much importance in these parts -- the Kshaid Dain Thlen Falls -- has special significance for the Khasis. Legend has it that a monster was annhilated around here. Thlen is the Khasi name for a monster, which was believed to be as evil as the devil. Axe marks, visible near the falls, are evidence of the massacre of Thlen. Most people do not leave Cherrapunjee without driving the 12 scenic kilometres to Thangkharang, a bird sanctuary and a look out point to Bangladesh. On a sunny, clear day from the Meghalaya hill tops, the rich green alluvial plains of Bangladesh, criss-crossed with its wide rivers on the final leg of its journey to the sea, are clearly visible. Dawki, the check post on the border, is about 20 to 25 km from Cherrapunjee but the nearest embassy is at Agartala, the state capital of Tripura.
Usurper to the world title, Mawsynram, hardly 12 km away, is famous for its caves too. But it is difficult to reach from Cherrapunjee and the town can be accessed from Shillong. This rainy town is well known for its limestone caves.
The best time to visit Cherrapunjee is during late September or October after the monsoon or else during the summer. In winter these hills are very chilly. During the monsoon the heavy downpour could dissuade even the most serious traveller. The town is green all year round.
It is probably advisable to stay at Shillong, where better accommodation is available and do Cherrapunjee as a day trip. Cherrapunjee has extremely limited accommodation options. Circuit House, Cherrapunjee. Probably the only comfortable to stay in the town, you may apply for permission to stay at this government guest house by visiting the deputy comissioner's office at Kacheri road, Shillong. Polo Towers, Oakland road, Polo grounds. Tel # 0364-222340, 222341, 222342. Rs 595 for a non AC single room, plus 10 per cent taxes. Rs 750 for a non AC double room, plus 10 per cent taxes. Rs 1,500 for a non-AC suite, plus 10 per cent taxes. Modernish hotel. In-house serves Indian, Chinese, South Indian, continental and Mughlai. Alpine Continental, Quinton road. Tel # 0364-220991. This three star hotel offers accommodation in 31 heated rooms. Rs 550 for a non AC single room, plus 10 per cent taxes. Rs 650 for a non AC double room, plus 10 per cent taxes. Rs 1,150 for a non-AC suite, plus 10 per cent taxes. Comfortable. In-house restaurant serves Chinese, Indian, South Indian, Mughlai and continental food.
Cherrapunjee is 56 km and about two hours away from Shillong. There is a regular bus service operated by Meghalaya Tourism between Shillong and Cherrapunjee. Shared taxis also make regular trips between the two towns. Shillong has neither a railway station nor a commercial airport. The town is accessible from Guwahati. Guwahati in Assam is three hours away by road. Again several Meghalaya Tourism buses do the circuit. There are no night buses though. The Rajdhani Express pulls into Guwahati thrice a week from New Delhi. The North-East Express from New Delhi pulls into Gaya daily. The Kanchenjunga Express pulls into Guwahati daily from Calcutta. Guwahati is the nearest aiport to Shillong. Indian Airlines and Jet Airways fly into Guwahati. Indian Airlines daily Jet five times a week from Calcutta. Indian Airlines and Jet also fly into Guwahati from New Delhi. Jet Airways daily, IA four times a week. |
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