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Sarahan

In the midst of the cool deodar forests of southeast Himachal Pradesh, in the Sutlej valley, is the tiny village of Sarahan. The chief landmark of this five-house village is the impressive golden-spired Bhimakali temple, that rises majestically against a snowy Himalayan backdrop. Perched at 1,920 metres, this Himachali hamlet commands a superb view of the surrounding Alpine countryside -- rolling meadows, apple orchards, flower-dotted valleys, silent forests, the swift Sutlej river and the haughty peaks.

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The Tibetan style, wooden Bhimakali temple, with its slate roof, pagodas, exquisitely carved silver doors and golden towers is magnificent to behold. In the Sutlej valley -- an area once renowned for its wooden shrines on elevated timber platforms -- this temple is the only one tended to by Brahmin priests, instead of local villagers as is the custom in Himachal.

Sarahan -- on the Kinnaur-Shimla border -- was the capital of the kings of Bhushar, who once ruled neighbouring Kinnaur. Located about 180 km from Shimla, the temple is located in what was once the palace complex.

Other than the Bhimakali mandir, Sarahan -- population: 1,200 -- offers no other attractions. The sleepy bazaar sells some interesting puja samagrih (equipment for worship) and jewellery. Sarahan and the area around is great trekking country. Traditionally, pilgrims have done the seven day trek around Srikhand Mahadev. Ranwin or Bashal are other good trekking destinations.

Unlike other temples in these parts, which are dedicated to local deities, the temple is dedicated to Bhimakali (Durga). Built probably in the 12th century (though some reports date it to 900 BC) and rebuilt in the 1920s, Bhimakali was constructed in both Hindu and Buddhist styles. The golden idol is said to be 200 years old. The doors are of special interest: Commissioned by Raj Shamsher Singh in the 1800s, they are famous for their mythological themes, done in repousse technique (formed in relief). The collection of bronze Buddhist and Hindu statues, within the temple, are worth a look. Two minor temples house deities of Raghunath and Narsinghe. No leather, shoes or cameras are allowed in the temple and donning a cap is a must.

Sarahan -- and the Bhimakali temple -- comes into its own during Dussera. A big puja is held and villagers congregate from miles around. Dussera may not be the best time to visit for the faint-hearted because a ceremony of animal sacrifice is held during the festivities.

The best time to visit Sarahan is in summer from mid-April to July. Or post monsoons in September and October.

Hotel Srikhand, Sarahan, Himachal Pradesh, tel # 01782- 7434. This Himachal Pradesh tourism-run, hilltop lodge is the ideal place to stay. Its rooms command great views and are comfortable, clean and well equipped. The in-house restaurant serves Chinese, Indian and continental food. Deluxe double rooms for Rs 900. Ordinary double rooms for Rs 300. Ordinary double rooms, with kitchens, for Rs 750. Cottages for Rs 2,500. Dorm bed for Rs 45.

Bushair Guest House, Sarahan, tel # 03554-43231. Simple double rooms, with attached bathrooms, for Rs 300. Decent accommodation.

Temple Complex, Sarahan. Bhimakali temple offers a few (9) clean rooms for travellers. Ordinary double rooms, with bathrooms attached, for Rs 150. Deluxe double rooms, with bathrooms attached, for Rs 300. Dorm beds for Rs 25.

Sarahan is 184 km, and approximately four hours, away from Shimla. Shimla is also the nearest airport. There is a regular bus service between Shimla and Sarahan. It is possible to hire taxis in Shimla to make the journey.

Archana Airways flies into Shimla from New Delhi on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. The flight, F5 131, departs at 0630 hours and arrives in Shimla at 0740 hours. The one way economy fare is Rs 2,799. The return flight F5 132 departs from Shimla on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays 0810 hours and arrives in New Delhi at 0920 hours .

It is possible to reach Shimla from New Delhi via Kalka by rail. Several trains pull into Shimla from Kalka daily. The five hour journey from Kalka, in the plains, to Shimla, at 2,000 feet above sea level, by narrow-gauge railway, is very enjoyable. Several trains daily connect Kalka with New Delhi.

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