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Alleppey: Nicknamed Venice of the East, Alleppey though a canal town has none of the charm or romance of its Italian counterpart. However it is typical small town Kerala and saunter through the town may give you a glimpse of the bustling coir trade that this Kuttanad port is famous for.

Kottayam: Situated in the middle of a Lake Vembanad, that is nestled in the midst of rubber and spice plantations and lush Kerala forests and under the shadow of the Western Ghats, Kottayam has a blissful location. The two Syrian Christian churches perched on hillocks overlooking the town add colour to the scene. Click to Cheria Palli and Vallia Palli Churches in Quick getaways. And the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary is a big draw for exotic Siberian birds in winter.

Quilon: Pronounced Kollam, Quilon is an ancient port town, located 64 odd kilometres north of Trivandrum and is the southern most Kuttanad town. The town is also situated on the pretty Lake Ashtamudi. A busy commercial centre there is little to show that it dates back to the days of Marco Polo, who incidentally visited Quilon.

Kuttanad or Backwaters

There are several ways to do the backwaters. It really depends on the amount of energy you have and your budget. Some can sit in a rice boat all day and cruise from village to village. Others may feel like looking for a beer after an hour's trip. We have outlined here a couple of ways of doing the trip:

Based in Cochin from Kottayam:. One alternative, and a more economical one is to base yourself in Cochin. The Tourist Information Centre, Kerala Tourism Development Corporation (KTDC) office in Cochin located at Shanmagham Road, Ernakulum, tel # 0484-353234 or Akash Tours, tel # 4312828 in Bombay can arrange for a car to take you to Kottayam by road (per day charges are about Rs 850). They will also arrange to have a motorised boat (please note: not a motor boat) waiting there. Renting the boat by the hour costs Rs 300

And then one is free to explore the backwaters around Kottayam at random. One needn't follow any route. Once you have sped the distance from Cochin into the heart of the backwaters, it is for you to choose whether to take one waterway or the other. Half the fun of the backwaters is to drift with the flow of life of the locals; this being the most unique opportunity to having a close up view of the tranquil Kerala village life (not visible from the roads) . Unlike a city of canals, the Kuttanad is not a preserved tourist spot. Life revolves around the lagoons in the backwaters. Each village has its own flotilla of boats, huts built around the lagoons and even bathrooms that drain into the canals. So it is your chance to explore a whole 'nother extraordinary way of living. One can glide across to dock where rice sacks are being loaded or visit a tiny betel nut processing centre. Stop at a village located in a dense glade of palms for a cup of coffee and for a small fee they will serve up a simple meal of fish curry and rice, with a radio tinkling some film music for company. Watch coconuts being picked or toddy being tapped or sail past riverboats groaning with vegetables or spices. Observe lagoon fishing or buffaloes bathing.

Stick to the narrow waterways because the wider ones are less charming and it feels like you are on a river. The waters of the lagoons open out onto the giant Lake Vembanad, which is the central basin of the backwaters. We suggest you avoid cruising the lake because it is very big it lacks the real lagoon ambience. Four or five hours at a time on the lagoons is what we recommend. It is hot out and one can get easily exhausted and it is better to start very early. Park at the Taj Garden Retreat at Kumarakom for lunch and have a bite to eat at their dining room or at Coconut Lagoon at the Casino Hotel before making the return journey back to Cochin by road.

Based in Cochin from Alleppey: A second and equally picturesque way of doing a backwaters trip is drive to Alleppey from Cochin; one and a half hours. And if meandering is not your style then opt for the straight three hour lagoon ride between Alleppey and Kumarakom. A beautiful trip and a break at any of the restaurants at the beautifully located Taj Garden Retreat or at Coconut Lagoon is advised before you take the return journey home by road. Alternately before packing up enquire at the KTDC office at Kottayam about taking a rice boat or local craft for a spin. Almost like a dugout canoe, the boatman walks along the shore towing the boat. A rice boat is the most peaceful way to see the lagoons; Rs 150 per hour.

Based in Kottayam: The most luxurious and wonderful but expensive way to see the lagoons is to base yourself at the Taj Garden Retreat hotel at Kumarakom or at the Coconut Lagoon and have them arrange boat rides or speed boats and draw up itineraries for you at costs not comparable to what KTDC does.

By Houseboat: If you are willing to pull out all stops, enquire about renting a comfy Keralan houseboat or kettuvallam (Rs 3000 a day or more) or take the two day houseboat cruise arranged by Alleppey Tourist Development Co-op Society (ATDC). For something more interesting call Tourindia, 163, MG Road, Trivandrum, tel # 0471-330437, 331507. Fax: 0471-331407. Email: Tourindia. Or email: Tourindia.Website: Tourindia. Or enquire at Coconut Lagoon Casino Group of Hotels, Willingdon Island, tel # 0484-668221, 668421. Fax: 0484-668001. Email: Casino hotel.

The Kerala Tourism Development Corporation also arranges accommodation on their houseboats located in the backwaters at a tariff or Rs 1200 per day for double room or cabin. Enquire at the KTDC office in Cochin (address and numbers listed above)

Practicalities: Alleppey and Kumarakom are accessible by road from Cochin. Its best to drive up to Kottayam or Alleppey, both one and a half hours away. At Alleppey inquire at the Alleppey Tourist Development Co-op Society (ATDC) office at Karthika Tourist Home, tel 0477-3462 about what arrangements, in terms of boats and itineraries, you can make. Off the the beaten track, excuse me lagoon, spots like Champakulam St Mary's Forane Church or Changanacherry may be of more interest. Highly recommended by some is the three and a half hour jaunt between Alleppey and Kottayam or vice versa. The State Water Transport Dept at Alleppey offers the best rates for hired boats, although private agents may offer bigger boats. However it is recommended that you book a boat well before you arrive in Kerala. It is further advised that during winter tourist season that you make all your arrangements - hotels or houseboats or motor boats -- well in advance.

Just for your information some public ferry schedules are listed below. Some enjoy the long haul on a public boat taxi as the locals do it through the Kuttanad from Alleppey to Quilon route (eight and a half hours):

• Alleppey to Quilon: ATDC ferries depart Mon, Wed and Fri at 09.45. Eight and a half hours.
• Alleppey to Kottayam: Eleven departures daily. Two and a half hours.
• Alleppey to Cochin: Every other day at noon. Six hours.
• Alleppey to Kumarakom: Daily at 15.00. Three hours.
• Quilon to Alleppey: ATDC ferries depart Tue, Thurs and Sat at 09.45am. Eight and a half hours.
• Kottayam to Alleppey: Eleven boats depart daily from 07.30 with 21 stops. Two and half hours.