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Taj Garden Retreat, Kumarakom, near Kottayam, tel # 0481-524377. Fax: 0481-524373. Email: Taj Garden RetreatWebsite: Taj Garden Retreat: Located 15 kilometres west of Kottayam. Once the family mansion of rubber planters and Christian missionaries based in the backwaters, the Baker's Bungalow has been converted into a hotel with just six rooms and a dining room. Fourteen others are available in cottages nearby and in houseboats anchored at the water's edge.

The Retreat is situated smack in the middle of Kumarakom bird sanctuary (where Siberian birds arrive in the winter and there are interesting bird nesting areas) as well as on the shores of Lake Vembanad and has lush riverside gardens around it. The entire Kumarakom area was once a large rubber plantation and an interesting side trip at Kumarakom is to visit the island in the middle of the lake. Expensive but great ambience. Tariffs for a double room are US $ 120 and upwards. The Taj offers much more economical packages off season.

Coconut Lagoon, Kumarakom, near Kottayam, tel # 0481-525834. Fax: 0484-668001. Email: Casino hotel: This hotel run by Casino, a Kerala hotel group is perhaps the best address on Vembanad Lake. Fifty traditional Kerala cottages or therawads, some of them nearly 250 years old, have been uprooted from elsewhere in the backwaters and re-located at Kumarakom for this waterside resort, located in a former coconut plantation. The resort has sleek Kerala elegance -- traditional furnishings have been used be it the famous Kerala brass locks or curled Kerala roofs. Hotel staff wear typical Kerala garb. Attached baths are all open air and boast banana trees. The hotel has recently opened a plush new garden of cottages that are right on Vembanad lake. Each cottage has its own swimming pool.Good restaurant and good ambience. Accessible only by water, boat can take you one zipping right into the lobby of the hotel! Expensive. Rooms run from US $ 120 upwards. The Coconut Lagoon offers much more economical packages off season.

KTDC Kumarakom Tourist Complex, Lake Vembanad, Kumarakom, near Kottayam, tel # 0481-524258: Not as upmarket a choice as the two mentioned above. The rooms are located in an old mansion overlooking a lotus pool in the middle of a woodland park. However a special houseboat train (designed by British architect Laurie Baker) is operated from the complex. Each boat consists of two rooms and the tariff is Rs 1,100 when the boat is docked and Rs 600 extra a day when the boat train is on the move. Medium Expensive.

Golden Waters, Kumarakom, near Kottayam. Phone: 0481-525826 525826. Email:Golden Waters. Website: Golden Waters: Quiet simple resort on Vembanad Lake. Accommodation in 30 Kerala style cottages. Ayurvedic centre attached.

Vembanad Lake Resort, Kottayam, tel # 0481-564298: Cottages located along the lakeside. Very reasonable. Not luxurious.

Alleppey Prince, AS Road, Alleppey, tel # 0477-3752, fax 0477-3758: The location has nothing to recommend for itself. But the hotel is comfy and posh by Alleppey standards but not exactly luxurious. The air conditioned rooms are furnished in typical simple Kerala style of wood and coir. There's a pool. Restaurant serving varied cuisine. The hotel from time to time stages Kathakali performance which makes for a good treat. Medium Expensive.

Marari Beach Resort, Mararikulam, outside Alleppey. Phone: 0484-668221. Fax: 0484-668001. Email: Casino hotel: This newish Casino chain resort is not exactly a backwaters hotel. In fact it is located on a fabulous white beach near the fishing hamlet of Mararikulam about 10 km from Alleppey. But the hotel, with its thatched roof cottages, lotus ponds and charming pool is a lovely place to stay. Facilities: tennis, water sports, ayurvedic centre. You can base yourself here and chart trips to backwater spots. The resort has its own restaurant that serves very average food.

Kayaloram Lake Resort, Punmamadam, Vembanad Lake, near Alleppey. Phone: 0477-242040, 260573. Email: Kayaloram Lake Resort: Simple Kerala cottages in a quiet environs with pool. Comfortable lodging for abour Rs 2,500 per night.

Keraleeyam, Nehru Trophy road, Thathampally, near Finishing Point. Phone: 0477-241468: Accommodation in a theravad. Keraleeyam is an atmospheric ayurvedic resort bang on he the main snake boat racing canal, a major backwater artery, a few kilometres from Alleppey. Comfortable lodging for about Rs 1,300 per night.

Government Guest House, Ashtamudi Lake, Quilon, tel # 0474-743620: Has the typical charm of an Indian government lodge -- high ceilings, spacious rooms, Raj grace and character. Pretty place. Two-hundred years old apparently. Located on a lagoon. But only very few rooms that have to be booked a fair bit in advance. Astoundingly reasonable.

Ashtamudi Resorts, Chavara south, Quilon (Kollam), phone: 0476-882288. Fax: 0476-882470: Ashtamudi Resorts is situated on the banks of the Ashtamudi lake and has air-conditioned and non-air conditioned rooms and cottages. The hotel has a coffee shop and an in-house multi-cuisine restaurant serving fresh fish and organic vegetables. It is possible to take a houseboat cruise or try a spot of meditation or go for Ayurvedic body rejuvenation treatment or consult an astrologer. The resort promises an eco-friendly, non-polluted environment. Rates are US $ 100 upwards

Aquaserene, AQUASERENE South Paravoor P O, near Kollam. Phone: 0474-512410, 512411, 512412, 512413, 512417. Fax: 0474-512104. Email : Aquaserene. Website: Aquaserene: A newish backwater resort, Aquaserene has an enviable location: smack on the waterfront. Accommodation is offered in red-roof cottages for about 90 $ or more per night. The resort is 20 km from Quilon.

Poovar Island Resort, Pozhiyoor, Trivandrum. Phone: 0471-212070. Fax: 0471- 212092. Email: Park Plaza. Website: Poovar Island Resort:Not strictly a backwaters resort because it is way south of the continuous backwaters stretch that spans from Cochin to Quilon, the floating cottages of Poovar are nevertheless an attractive destination. A between the backwaters and ocean resort, this hotel, run by the Sarovar Park Plaza offers comfortable accommodation in cottages and in cottages located on floating rafts that don't go anywhere. Tariffs are Rs 2,600 for Indian passport holders and US $ 65 for foreign passport holders.

On a Kerala houseboat or kettuvallam: Staying on one of Kerala's houseboats -- the non-stationary ones -- is probably the best way to experience the colourful backwaters of Kerala. No doubt it would be an expensive experience. Kettuvallams can be hired at Rs 5000 and upwards per day. They typically accommodate four persons. The boats contain two bedrooms, usually, with attached bathrooms, a sitting-dining area, a deck and a kitchen. Fully furnished and equipped with an ice box and manned by a crew of three to four, a cook included, staying on a kettuvallam is comfortable living. About 250 boat operate along the backwaters. Cheaper boats are available for much less but it is a cheaper experience too. Try the dockside, called Finishing Point (that's where the snake boat races end) at Alleppeys, the town of houseboat operators and the starting point for backwater journeys, where boats for even Rs 500 to Rs 1,000 per day are available .

The better boats usually get booked out way in advance during tourist season. On short notice it is difficult to book a kettuvallam locally. Listed below are some agencies that book houseboats:

• Tourindia, 163, MG Road, Trivandrum, tel # 0471-330437, 331507. Fax: 0471-331407. Email: Tourindia. Or email: Tourindia.Website: Tourindia: The pioneers of houseboat tourism, they are the biggest kettuvallam operators in the state. They own 14 houseboats of four sizes -- one bedroom, two bedroom, three bedroom and a double deck three bedrooms and design lengthy tours of the backwaters. Should they be booked out they can still organise a boat for you.
• Inspirations East Ltd, Victoria House, Horley, Surrey, tel # 011293-822244.
• Manos, 168-172 Old Street, London, tel # 0171-216-8011.
• Spice Coast Cruises, Casino Group of Hotels, Willingdon Island, tel # 0484-668221, 668421. Fax: 0484-668001. Email: Casino hotel
• KTDC, Mascot Square, Trivandrum. Phone: 0471-318976. Fax: 0471-314406, 334780. Email: KTDC.
• Taj Garden Retreat, Kumarakom, Phone: 0481-524377. Fax: 0481-524373.