INDIA GUIDE
TRAVEL DESK
EVENTS
AIRLINES
SEARCH

Amritsar, located a mere 24 kilometres from the border with Pakistan, is a young city compared with the other ancient settlements of the north Indian plains. Located on the Old Silk Route, commerce was its lifeblood. An important trading town frequented by sturdy merchant caravans from central and western Asia, Amritsar was built in 1577 on land granted by Emperor Akbar and purchased from jat farmers.

Named Amritsar after the pool of nectar or the sacred pool within the Golden Temple complex, the city is lively and chaotic, bursting with bazaars like any other North Indian metro.

A whistlestop tour of Amritsar, like Queen Elizabeth II’s progress through the town, need only include visits to the two major landmarks of the city – the Golden Temple, of course. and the Jallianwala Bagh

Golden Temple

The temple, built by Guru Arjan Dev, is easily one of the most magnificent shrines in the world. All who tiptoe, barefoot, up the cool marble causeway across the ripple-free, serene lake are hypnotised by the sight of the burnished gold Harmandir Sahib beckoning gently at the other end; like a queen regally summoning her courtiers. Even more enticing is the golden reflection of the Harmandir Sahib shimmering gloriously in the sarovar, as kirtans hauntingly sing in the background. The tranquillity, grace and beauty of the shrine never fails to move visitors.

The Holy Book of the Sikhs, the Guru Granth Sahib, is housed within the Harmandir Sahib, which is the main building of the complex. This ancient text, a giant compendium of 3,500 hymns, is placed on a high dais under a bejewelled canopy.

The graceful Harmandir Sahib is three storeys high. Readings from the book – which the last Sikh guru Gobind Singh declared would be the tome to replace his spoken word, on his death, since he declared that he was the last guru – are recited from 4 am to 11 pm daily and a single reading of the book takes about 48 hours. And then every evening the sacred book is carefully ferried across the complex, in its own jewel encrusted palanquin, to the Akal Takht where it passes the night. The interior of the Harmandir Sahib is extremely impressive. Its milky marble walls are adorned with jewels, elaborate ivory hand-carvings, silver work and gold leaf designs.

Apart from the Harmandir Sahib, there are a number of other features of the temple complex that must be visited. At the entrance of the compound, under the Darshini Darwaza, is a strange colonial clock tower.

At the north end of the complex are the 68 holy spots. These points, located cheek-by-jowl to one another, represent 68 Hindu holy sites of India. And a pilgrimage of all 68, not even a half day’s work, is the equivalent of actually doing the pilgrimage of the far-flung 68 sites of India.

The Guru-ka-Langar is the giant dining hall of the Golden Temple. Food is available for all who enter its portals. Apparently some 10,000 rotis are dished up between 1100 hours and 1500 hours and 1900 hours and 2100 hours daily.

The Akal Takht, the second most frequented building in the complex, is a kind of in-house Sikh administrative seat and members of the community’s governing body – the Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee -- have their offices here. Guru Gobind Singh ordered the construction of the Akal Takht in the 1600s.

Don’t leave the complex without having a look at the 450-year old Jubi Tree that is believed to have magical powers. The bathing ghats on the edge of the pool is an interesting and very atmospheric place too.

The Golden Temple is open to the public. However, all those who enter must leave their footwear at the entrance enclosure and cover their heads. Carrying liquor, tobacco and drugs inside is not permitted. Photography inside the shrines is not allowed.

Jallianwalla Bagh

The Jallianwala Bagh is a small green memorial park tucked behind some tall buildings that can be accessed by a tiny path. While there is not that much to see at the park, it is a chance to stand on one of the most historical spots of India and one of-the most-debated-upon spots of 1997.

On a fine spring day in 1919, April 13, the day of the Sikh festival of Baisakhi, crowds – 20,000 people gathered at Jallianwala Bagh to peacefully protest the Rowlatt Act, legislation put in place to allow British authorities to arrest any Indian without a trial, even on a suspicion of sedition. Before the meeting could commence, General Dyer strategically positioned his troops at the only exit point and opened fire without warning. Within 15 minutes hundreds lay dead from bullet wounds or after jumping in the well situated in the middle of the maidan.

Today, the park houses a small gallery that displays newspaper clippings, first-hand accounts and photographs of the massacre. The well, pockmarked by bullets, is still located in the middle of the park

Climate

Amritsar is rather hot in summers with temperatures reaching 34 degrees Celsius. Amritsar's winters are chilly with the mercury sinking to zero degrees Celsius in the evening. The city receives an annual rainfall of 59.2 cms.

How to get there

It is possible to reach this city, the second largest in Punjab, by road, rail or air. Indian Airlines flies into Amritsar from New Delhi three times a week. A number of fast trains link Delhi with Amritsar; an 8 hour journey. The most convenient daily services are the daily Shatabdi Express (departs 0510 hours) and the Amritsar-New Delhi Express (departs 0620 hours). By road Amritsar is 9 hours away from New Delhi.

Tourist Office

• Tourist Bureau, Government of Punjab, Palace Hotel, opposite the Amritsar railway station, tel # 0183-42164.
• Punjab Tourist Information Centre, Youth Hostel, tel # 0183-51558.

  Hotels

  The following hotels have been recommended and approved by the Government of India tourist office:

  • Mohan International, Albert Road, tel # 0183-227801, 227802, 227803, 227804, 227805. Air-conditioned double rooms are available for Rs 1,200 per night on twin sharing basis.

  • Amritsar International Hotel, City Centre, near the bus stand, tel # 0183-31991, 31992, 32234. Deluxe rooms are available for Rs 525 per night on twin sharing basis.

  • Ritz Hotel, 45, The Mall, tel # 0183-226606, 2266027. Air-conditioned double rooms are available for Rs 1,250 per night on twin sharing basis.

  • Hotel Airlines, Cooper Road, tel # 0183-64648, 227738. Air-conditioned double rooms are available for Rs 500 per night on twin sharing basis.

  • Hotel Astoria, 1 Queens Road, 0183-66046, 66414. Air conditioned rooms are available for Rs 495 per night on twin sharing basis.

  • Grand hotel, Queens road, opposite the railway station, tel # 0183-62977, 62677, 624242. Air conditioned rooms are available for Rs 495 per night on twin sharing basis.

  
  

Back

Tell us what you think of this feature