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Cloud Nine ...a weekend in Ranikhet Sanjay Singh Badnor Chaubatia gardens spread over an expanse of 265 acres. It is supposed to be one of India's largest horticultural gardens, Anand Singh, our guide, explained. A meticulous man, Anand went over the numerous plant species found here and listed the 36 varieties of apples grown at Chaubatia, four of which he proudly informed us were exported -- the Golden Delicious, Royal Delicious, Richie Red and Red Delicious. Apple, plum, apricot, pear, peach and cherry orchards stretched out as far as the eye could see. The gardens offered an incredible view of the Himalayas. The foreground of forest cover of cyprus, oak, birch, deodar, popular, willow, pine and chestnut made the view more attractive. Before our guide broke into another discussion, which now resembled a botany class lecture, we headed for the fruit counter and bought some fresh green apples, before hitting the road again. Between Ranikhet and Majhkali we stopped at another tourist spot -- the Upat golf course. It was a sprawling, beautifully landscaped green; a large part of it has been turned into a picnic spot. Children frolicked about, honeymooners posed for romantic snapshots. We decided to watch a game being played by a few army officers at one end of the golf course. I spotted an acquaintance from Rajasthan. Narendra Singh, a retired lieutenant colonel, had made Ranikhet his home. After he finished his game he took us over to the club house for a cup of tea, where we met the commanding officer of the Kumaon regiment, Brigadier Rajeshwar Singh. The next afternoon we were scheduled to return to Delhi via Nainital. Courtesy Narendra Singhji, a visit to the cantonment was planned. We awoke to a gray, overcast sky. It was Sunday morning and our last day at Ranikhet. It had not been a very wet weekend after all. A steady drizzle forced us to sit indoors for our last cup of tea. Shortly afterwards, good old Sher Singh dropped us to the cantonment. At half past nine we reached the Cart road bungalow to keep our breakfast appointment with Narendra Singhji. His was a typical colonial bungalow, set amidst five acres of pine trees, with a splendid view of the peaks. Its name: The Priory. After breakfast we were introduced to the true lord of the house, Colonel Ram Singh, 80, who walked in briskly, along with Bruno, his black Labrador close at heels. Posted at Ranikhet in 1957 as commandant of the Kumaon regiment, Colonel Ram Singh was so enamored by its natural beauty that he decided to make Ranikhet his home. As we got talking I realised my parents had honeymooned in Ranikhet sometime in the late 1950s, and the colonel had been their host. He had generously entertained them at the commandant's official residence. Forty years later, I too had enjoyed Colonel Ram Singh's hospitality. Driving through the cantonment in the colonel's apple green Ambassador was an enjoyable excursion. He gave us a whistlestop tour of the colonial era churches and other landmarks. Everybody, from young giggling school girls in their Nivea-blue uniforms, junior army officers, shopkeepers, traders and most of the town folk recognised the colonel and waved out to him. We decided to visit another relic of the Raj, while we were still in the cantonment -- the West View Hotel. Lunching at the hotel dining hall was an experience in reliving colonial grandeur. Meals were a 1920s affair with proper damask linen, German silver, china crockery and a fireplace in working order. Commencing operations in 1935, the West View has retained its ambience and reputation despite newer, fancier properties coming up around it. A young couple, Pawan and Shristi from Delhi, at the next table, were Ranikhet regulars. They often escaped the hustle and bustle of the capital to come to Ranikhet... to come to this Cloud Nine. Back Fast Facts Tell us what you think of this feature

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