INDIA GUIDE
TRAVEL DESK
EVENTS
AIRLINES
SEARCH

Theresa Varghese. Photographs V Sunny

Try a set mundu if you're female and a double veshti if you are male. The range here is mindboggling. Prices start at Rs 300 and go up to steep Rs 17,000. Why is it so expensive? And the material is all cotton? Due to the zari used. The more intricate the zari work, the higher the price. Settle for a simple one for there's nothing cooler than a fine cotton dhoti in the clammy heat of Cochin.

Cochin has just two seasons. It's hot. Or it's wet. In summer the extremely high humidity levels can sap your brain of all thought. And in the monsoons, if you're visualising dainty little showers... perish the thought! The rains here are full-bodied, dramatic events... darkness, thunder, lightning... the works. So whichever way you look at it, wearing a mundu makes good sense. Plenty of air circulation when the heat intensifies and tucked safely high and dry when the deluge commences. Oh and don't forget the bathroom slippers. They're all-purpose in these parts.

Ernakulam ends at Thevara from where Venduruthy bridge connects the town to Willingdon Island. A totally man-made piece of land, created from the dredging of the harbour, courtesy Robert Bristow -- erstwhile chief engineer of the port -- Cochin harbour is believed to be amongst the finest natural ones in the world. Besides scenic views from various vantage points and the airport, for tourists the island is basically a thoroughfare connecting one part of the mainland to another part of the mainland, Mattancherry, the part of Cochin where old-timers reside.

Mattancherry is what guide books describe as quaint. As you delve into Mattancherry's winding lanes, you see vintage Cochin. Places like Jew Town, home to the oldest community of Jews in the country. Amongst various theories being propagated as to how they came to the Malabar coast, one goes that they were part of King Solomon's fleet. Definitely more than a trace of antiquity here.

The biggest attraction here is the synagogue. Built in the 15th century, it is a structure that is an enduring symbol of a community. A looksee inside is a memorable experience but do be careful of the merchants hawking their wares in the narrow lanes nearby. You can get ripped off if you're the gullible sort. One shop worth visiting,, however, is Idiom, the bookstore run by an expatriate. The handwritten sign outside is appropriate -- Dangerously good books. So! Enter with care. You could get hooked.

Close to Jew Town is the Dutch Palace, once the home of the Raja of Cochin and now of academic interest to those inclined to stuff like murals and palanquins. But go on further to Fort Cochin and you will come to the beach where stand the Chinese fishing nets, framed for posterity on every travel brochure selling Cochin. Believed to have been brought to Kerala by Chinese traders, the continuing use of these giant nets by local fishermen is a reminder of the rich trade in gold, ivory and spices that this coastal town was once involved in.

The contemporary fisherman is a prominent figure on the beach. In addition to sheds that sell freshly caught fish to the locals, there are makeshift stalls with eye-catching slogans like 'You buy, we fry' and 'Fresh fish. Cooked while you wait'. The hygiene is not too impressive... But what the heck! These canny businessmen do stir up a mean curry. Served with boiled rice or mushy tapioca, it's a good deal if you're not prone to suffering from Delhi Belly.

Fort Cochin is truly colonial India. Except that, unlike other parts of the country where it was the British who left their mark, the nooks and corners here speak of the Portuguese and the Dutch, both of whose bastion it once was. St Francis Church and Vasco da Gama's burial place notwithstanding, Fort Cochin has, to put it simply, character. That many consider it a great place to explore is obvious from the scores of European budget travellers who take up lodgings here. Currently their nodal point for meeting and exchanging views is Kashi, a fairly new café on Burgher street. Run by Anup and his American wife Karuna, Café Kashi is become well known for its coffee and cakes and for the simple, easy-on-pocket continental breakfast and lunch they do. The café also holds art exhibitions periodically. Is Kashi going to become another Leopold of the 70s (the one and only in Bombay) Quite, quite possible.

What does one take back from Cochin? Well, you could be touristy and visit Kairali. The handicrafts emporium stocks carved wooden canoes or purses made of jute. At the risk of being accused of a stomach fixation, may I advocate banana chips? Made from big yellow bananas called aithaka, there's nothing to beat the taste. Every little corner shop stocks the stuff, but desist from reaching out for the packaged variety. You can get them warm straight out of the chatti at a little hole in the wall at Thevara junction or at another little hole in the wall on MG road, near the upmarket McDonaldish The Cookie Shop.

But hey! That's fast-forwarding too much. What do you need when you come to Cochin? One, a mosquito net. Forget those namby pamby repellent creams and lotions. These are battle-hardened veterans here. Two, invest in a thorthu,, more commonly called the Kerala towel. Made of absorbent cotton, you need the item on your shoulder at all times to wipe the sweat pouring down your body. Three, a sense of humour. You'll need it.

Oh, and about those tourist brochures. Take them with a pinch of salt. You do see flashes of paradise, courtesy God. But with so many man-made monstrosities how can even He hope to win?

Cochin City Guide

Tell us what you think of this feature