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Photographs and text: Pallavi Gupta

It was the earliest domestic flight I had ever taken. As the plane took off, I rested my sleepy head on the window, trying to catch a glimpse of the shrinking earth below me. If it hadn't been for the spectacular view that followed, I would have settled for a two-hour nap.

Leaving the grey-brown land, the plane was over the majestic Bay of Bengal within seconds. I felt enveloped in a sphere of blue as the versatile shades of the skies met those of the sea. The sun was just making its presence felt as it cast its magical colours. At that point of time, there was nothing between me and bliss -- except my tiny aircraft window.

I was wrong to be cribbing about the early hours of this flight. It had chosen to rise with the sun, to meet in the skies -- and that made a perfect beginning to my trip to the Andaman and Nicobar islands. A place where man is compelled to surrender to nature.

Floating in splendid isolation, east of the Indian mainland, is the archipelago of 572 emerald islands called Andaman and Nicobar. Once a hill range extending from Burma to Indonesia, these Indian islands are home to 400,000 Indians, 200,000 of whom live in the capital town, Port Blair alone. Though these islands stretch over an area of more than 700 kms, from north to south, only 36 of the 572 islands are inhabited.

The first sight of the islands from the skies took me by surprise. There was nothing Indian-looking about them and in fact, reminded me of typical Swedish countryside.

But landing at the School Line airport (you'll hear more such funny names ahead) changed all that. The capital city is like any other Indian town. There's no escape from people, the vehicles have the same un-serviced look, the buildings and houses appear unkempt, and the noise level is just an extra bit better. It didn't take me anything to feel at home.

On my way to the hotel, I saw other Indian trademarks -- garbage on the streets, crazy drivers and shanty shops. Port Blair and its surrounding areas are well equipped with banks, post offices, petrol pumps, markets which dot its meandering roads. It's hard to feel isolated in such surroundings.

Fortunately, there is only a small area which is developed. Beyond, lies the real beauty of these islands where the trees engulf the entire territory with unbelievable variety. And the sea sits where it belongs, humbling you with its vastness. So, in spite of it all, one is still left with paradise.

There are two distinct inhabitants of the islands. The 'Indians' and the 'Natives'. The Indians are mainly from Madras, Calcutta and Punjab. They are very peace-loving, extremely well behaved and kind. English and Hindi are widely spoken languages, though Bengali and Malayalam follow close at the heels. The economy depends on tourism-related activities, fishing and coir-making.

Some also make money from smuggling immigrants, since Burma and Bangkok can be reached overnight by boat. Sure enough, even though a very strong naval base is situated here, some activities do manage to find their ways under water! Overall, the Indians here, live a moderately contented life. There isn't single beggar on the islands, and appearances are truly deceptive.

The native men or the aboriginal tribes are the main reason why the islands have an aura of wild abandonment about them. Since prehistoric times these islands were homes to various tribes like the Great Andamanese, Onges, Jarawas and Sentinelese, all of Negrito origin. While in tribes in the Nicobars were the Nicobarese and the dwindling Shompens, both of Mongoloid stock.

None of the above mentioned tribes are hostile and live on different islands, except one. The Jarawas live relatively closer to Port Blair than others and are a 'hostile' lot. Only four Indians are in touch with them and these are the only people who have permission to enter their territory.

The Jarawas, I was told, come in search of iron and steel and loot nearby houses, even killing the owners occasionally. They need the iron for making their tools which they use for hunting wild boars and for self-protection. Even travelling past their territory is banned unless accompanied by an armed guard, in a bus with rolled up windows.

The Jarawas live deep in the hills and seldom come down on the roads. If they do, they throw spars at moving buses, causing extensive damage. 'Contact parties' as the four Indians are called, visit them from time to time with pigs and coconuts in order to get some photographs.

Six months back, a Jarawa boy, who was accidentally caught in a trap, was rescued by Indians and treated at the Port Blair hospital. He had the highest number of visitors! He was also given the time of his life -- a bus ride, a TV show, delicious snacks, meals and desserts, before he was sent off to his tribe. The contact parties brought back a message after a few days saying that the Jarawas boy wanted to come back and live a life on comfortable hills.

During the course of talks, I was told that some Indians had used helicopters to fly over these tribals, and had fired at them, sending them fleeing. It is now banned to do such things as the tribals are protected by law. But it does make you wonder about who made the Jarawas hostile in the first place.

To get to know their lives better, a visit to the anthropology museum in P B would help. Looking at their photographs, their weapons, their vessels and other equipment puts you back in time by thousands of years!

There's a lot to see and do on the islands. But try not to compare them with other islands if you are a widely travelled person. That could take away some of the pleasure.

A sea holiday offers you the chance to snorkel, scuba dive and swim in complete isolation on sandy white beaches. You could also try island camping. My experience of spending some time on Red Skin and Grape islands was wonderful. But not half as much as my day in the forest hills.

A forest holiday is a different ball game altogether. There are treks, wild birds, exotic trees, and a whole lot of adventure in this one. I picked on a place called Bamboo Flat in South Andaman simply for its amusing name. I was rewarded with a breathtaking view of other islands and a chance to see some unusual trees and birds. There were also some tamed deer at Mount Harriet National Park at the peak of Bamboo Flat, who merrily shared some biscuits with me. Many trek routes are marked out and camping overnight makes things really exciting.

During my visit to Bamboo Flat. I was curious to know how the people lived there. So, I visited the poorest looking grass hut, armed with questions. What awaited me behind the weak walls was the last thing I expected. It was a furniture-less house except for the bed. All its members had their eyes glued to a colour TV -- they were watching a satellite channel. Next to it was a Sony stereo system with an unimaginable range of cassettes lined neatly near it.

The Andamanese woman informed me that she had completed her education and worked with the municipality at Port Blair. I stood there starting at this poorly clad woman, whose children ran naked with running noses, whose house had not even a mattress, let alone brick walls, but who was perfectly turned in to the world from a remote forest on an island! When I took her leave thanking her, her little boy with a running nose said "You are welcome. Come again."

I wondered if I could find such manners from some of the kids in Bombay!

Tours and travel in and around Port Blair are very well organised. So any tour operator could give your detailed information on these. However, I have two strong recommendations. The first is the sound and light show at the infamous cellular jail in Port Blair. A place where I felt deeply for the prisoners and valued my freedom even more.

The second is the hotel where I stayed, Bay Island. Beautifully designed by Charles Correa, the hotel at Marine Hill provides you with excellent packages, food and service. The staff is friendly, helpful and extremely polite.

Today is the last day of my trip. I shall be leaving by the early morning flight tomorrow and if the weather permits, catch another gorgeous sunrise. I have no regrets except for the fact that I could not visit the Nicobar islands. For that, one has to come with more time on hand, as a one way trip takes a few days, four to five, I believe. The interesting part is, you can live with the Nicobarese there, who are a friendly tribe as long as you want.

The Andamans have left an indelible impression on my mind. First of all, the islands are as isolated as I always thought them to be. And secondly, the Andamans are very Indian. It is on these islands that all religions come together. Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs and Christians live in perfect harmony. In fact, it is referred to as Mini India.

They appear to me like a group of little-attention-seeking children. They live in harmony and sort out their own differences. There are no boundaries of castes and religion. Everybody is equal. The islands are blessed with pure and healthy beauty. Too much development could cause them harm. I deeply wish they remain children and never grow. Because grown ups mark the end of living and the beginning of survival.

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