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The most traditional of Indian metros extends its hidebound values even into the field of food - thus, Madras is for those who like their food - south Indian food, that is - the way mother always made it. The average Madras eatery, thus, is long on tradition, pitifully short on innovation.

The best bets, if you find yourself in Madras, are to stick to the ubiquitous 'Udipi' cafes for such typically south Indian fast foods as idlis, dosas and vadas. And if variety is the spice of your gastronomic life, check out the speciality restaurants featuring the cuisines of neighbouring states like Andhra Pradesh and Kerala.

Intercontinental? Chinese? Sure, you get them, in the restaurants attached to starred hotels. At least, you get food labelled 'Intercontinental' and 'Chinese' - but if true-to-type taste is what you are into, then forget it.

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