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The Kadamba dynasty ruled this tropical land nestled in the Ghats from the 2nd century AD. It became part of the Hindu kingdom of Vijaynagar after a brief stint under Muslim rule. In the 1400s the Bahamani dynasty conquered Goa and established the first Old Goa settlement.

Goa was the first acquisition by the Portuguese in Asia who wanted a trading outpost for their spice trade. In the initial the Portuguese and the local Hindus had an amicable relationship and a Hindu governor was appointed after Goa was conquered from the Muslims under Adil Shah. But with the arrival of Jesuits, Franciscans and other religious orders in this eastern capital of the Portuguese empire, the Inquisition began in 1540. The golden age of Goa under the Portuguese was from 1575 to 1600. Epidemics, loss of trade with the Vijaynagar kingdom and warfare with the Marathas and the Dutch led to a steady decline. Increasing pressure was put on the Portuguese to give up Goa after India won independence. And finally in 1961 as a result of nonviolent demonstrations and Indian army action the Portuguese decamped. Goa became a state in 1987. Its population is just over 1.3 million. It has amongst the highest per capita incomes in India, has a better standard of infrastructure -- given its small size-- and a large proportion of urbanised population.

A Baga churchIn Panjim on the other hand -- which today has a population of approximately 50,000 -- earliest settlements date back to early 12th century. The Portuguese took it in 1510, though it was just a way-station, as the capital was Goa Dourada upriver. Modern Panjim looks the way it does only for the last decade, with a boom in real estate prices as small industries move in and tourism takes off. While even till 1990-91 shops and business establishments used to close down for siesta and it was impossible to get anything done between 1 and 4 pm, today it bustles throughout the day and shops do stay open till late evening.

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