A Whiff of the Past
The Sun now has begun to dip towards the horizon, but I have yet
another hour on my hands before I head back to Man Mandir to watch
the scheduled Sound and Light programme. I decide now to amble
across to the southern side where the Scindia Public School is
located.
Built in 1897 for the princes of the royal household of Gwalior
and other children of neighbouring princess and chieftains, the
Scindia school today is amongst the leading residential Public
schools of the country. The Teli temple looms large over a playing
field, standing placidly as a mute referee to the ongoing Hockey
match. Friendly and courteous students greet me as I walk through
the school grounds. I happen to bump into an acquaintance, Andy
Sharma who is now a House-master at the school and very graciously
takes me on a brief round of the campus. We then head towards
a ground where young students clad in spotlessly white kurta-pajamas
have assembled for Asthaachal - the traditional evening
prayer. The boys commence their silent homage to the setting sun
while I noiselessly try to capture the moment along with the silhouettes
which have turned intensely pronounced against the orange tinted
firmament.
It is dark by the time I return to Man Mandir. Two shows take
place every evening (in Hindi and English). It very convincingly
brings to life the old fort, its history, anecdotes and unattached
legends through the resounding voice of Amitabh Bachchan. The
canopy of brightly lit stars, the chill of the night and the hauntingly
captivating fort is absolutely magical.
I met an amiable Israeli coupleYigal and Simona and ended up watching
both the shows. They were staying at the Usha Kiran as well, so
together we all head back to the hotel in time for dinner. The
next morning after breakfast we make a trip down to the charming
old market square known as Baadha. Here stands a marvelleous marble
Chattri (cenotaph) dedicated to Mahadji Rao Scindia, a dynamic
ruler. Bustling with activity the bazaar is interesting with the
Old Cinema, the town hall and the Chattri set amidst a park with
antique Victorian lamp posts as the backdrop.
Next on the agenda is the Gurjari Mahal - the 15th century palace
built by Raja Man Singh for his favourite queen Mrignayani, the
doe-dyed beauty. At the foot of the fort is located the Archeological
museum. The museum has a rare collection of Hindu and Jain sculptures,
inscriptions and paintings. The museum's prized possession is
the breathtakingly beautiful sculpture commonly referred to as
the 'Mona Lisa of India'. For any visitor it is a must see. This
10th century stone figure of a smiling lady was discovered
at Gyarspur in Madhya Pradesh. Usually kept under lock and key, you may catch
a glimpse of this extraordinary Indian Mona Lisa if you are
lucky or successful enough in persuading the curator to
reveal the wonderful sculpture.
After lunch and a siesta, Rajeev Mehta very kindly takes us to
the old 17th century Moti Mahal. It has an appealing facade and
boasts of some fine frescoed interiors. But as government administrative
offices are located on the premises, the real beauty of these
artistic works is overshadowed by shoddy office furniture and
stacks of unkempt government files.
At sundown we reach the Chattri bazaar where the incredible stonework
cenotaphs of the Scindia rulers are located.
Day three dawns. It is to be my last day at Gwalior and I reckon
that I deserve yet another trip up to the fort. So rising with
the sun I catch one of those monstrous looking vehicles - the tempo,
a sputtering and un-eco friendly vehicle which has invaded most
of India's growing cities. At this unearthly hour it is the only
mode of transport available.
This time I approach the fort from the north-eastern side. Getting
down at Gurjari Mahal I walk up the cobbled pathway passing en
route several gates before reaching the Hathiya Pol (elephant
gate) - the last gate one has to pass through before reaching Man
Mandir. The early morning light falling directly onto the fort
is enthralling. It is only after I have had my fill and clicked
a whole lot of pictures I retrace my steps to the base of the fort.
Once again I pass by the Gurjari Mahal and the imprisoned Mona Lisa
and reach the two tombs of Muhammed Gaus, a 16th century Sufi
saint and Mian Tansen, the noted court singer of Emperor Akbar.
Only a couple of hours remain before I board the Shatabdi Express
to Delhi. I decide to spend this time at the splendid Jai Vilas
palace. Owned by Maharajah Madhav Rao Scindia of Gwalior this
handsome pure white edifice patterned on the style of the 'Palais
de Versailles' in France combines Tuscan, Italian and Corinthian
styles of architecture. In fact, the architectural style is a
good example of the pure-renaissance style which curtailed to
the minimum the use of color and was quite alien to the Indian
mood.
Inaugurated in 1875 during the visit of Prince Edward and Princess
Mary of Wales, the palace has been partly converted into a museum
for Royal memorabilia. The remaining part is the private residence
of Madhav Rao Scindia. The majestic Durbar Hall is a unique structure
and is one of the largest halls of its kind taking support only
from columns on four sides. On the floor is spread the largest
single piece carpet woven right there in the hall by 12 weavers
who took 13 years to complete it. From the ceiling hang a pair
of the largest crystal chandeliers in the world.
Built in Belgium and bought in Paris each weigh 3.5 tones. To
make sure the ceiling held their weight, a mile long ramp was
built and eight elephants were transported to the roof of the
Jai Vilas and paraded for four days. Unfortunately maintenance
work was on at the museum and I was unable to see the carpet which
was lying rolled up. Neither were the chandeliers lit.
The banquet hall down below has a long dinning-table bearing the
famous Royal Gwalior sterling silver train. This infact a liquor
trolley and actually moves on specially laid out tracks. This
too lies safely enclosed in a glass case, I guess taken out only
on very special occasions.
Rich in architectural wonders Gwalior by and large is a centre
of great heritage, and is an ideal weekend get-away. Easily accessible
by air, rail or road it has the correct mix of Forts, Palaces,
temples, tombs, museums and bazaars. It is fast becoming a popular
destination and will soon appear on many a tourist's itinerary.
Its proximity to Delhi is an added advantage. Equally exciting
excursion trips can be made from Gwalior. Shivpuri where the Madhav
National Wildlife park is located. Orchha-the picturesque 16th
century capital city of Bundelkhand. Sonagiri where you can find
a cluster of 100 beautiful 15th century rock-cut Jain temples
and Dattia which has another interesting 17th century, seven-storied
fort.
Photographs by Sanjay Singh Badnor
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